Kabukicho
I had previously heard of Kabukicho as the birthplace of jirai-kei. I spent a few nights.
It is the incarnation of commoditized intimacy. Money, we are taught, can be exchanged for goods and services
Concept cafe.
I wonder if the American occupants of the 1950s knew that the seeds of economy they planted would grow into a capitalism more perfect than America could ever achieve.
Kabukicho
Yukiya Niigata
I stood outside the restaurant in the rain, tentative. Am I even allowed to be here? Would I be welcomed, accepted? There are two patrons in the restaurant already. Would a solo diner at this time be an inconvenience?
I almost left. Then another couple arrived and walked in. And I followed.
I'm glad I did.
- Hotaru Ika (firefly squid, a springtime specialty)
- Hirame (olive flounder)
- Yari Ika (spear squid)
- Uni (sea urchin)
- Hotate (scallop)
- Sayori (Japanese halfbeak)
- Sayori no kawa (Skin of the Japanese halfbeak)
- Nodoguro (Blackthroat seaperch)
- Otoro (fatty tuna)
- Amaeba (sweet shrimp)
- Yari Ika (??)
- Kohada (gizzard shad)
- Anago (saltwater eel)
- Nihamaguri
Tsukioka Onsen
This is a place that has seen better days. In contrast
Tsim Sha Tsui
Japan trip 2025
I went to Japan for a week in early March 2025. I wanted to write publicly about this trip both for my own reference and so that others who are planning their own visits to Japan may benefit.
Tokyo
I stayed two nights at the Hotel Gracery Shinjuku in the heart of Kabukicho. I had previously only heard of Kabukicho as the district of Tokyo in which jirai-kei originated, and it carried little other meaning to me.
Staying in two nights in this accursed location sure gave it meaning.
Kabukicho is
People are, as is the case across the city, exceptionally well dressed. But the flavor of dress differs.
One amusing moment happened when I engaged with one of the girls advertising a local business. She was dressed very fashionably and was advertising a concept cafe. When I asked which concept, she pointed to her own outfit -- a somewhat Victorian punk. I pulled out my own Vivienne Westwood necklace. "Osoroi desu ne".
Niigata
The first thing people will say when you tell them that you're going to Niigata is "why". Niigata is not quite at the top of anyone's